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FEATURE

 


 

COOKING AND BAKING SECRETS

Shirley Corriher, The Science of Food

 

How are Kosher salt, sea salt and regular salt different and how do each effect cooking? Why is it that bread flour performs differently from other flours?  Are your cookies crumbly?

Shirley will tell you why and explain in clear terms how to use each ingredient to its best purpose.

For instance, her answer to your cookie problem lies in the gluten.  In an interview she gave to the Institute of Culinary Education, she explains:

"Gluten holds baked goods together, but cookies have a lot of fat, and all that fat greases up the flour so that the protein strands can't possibly grab each other. And then you have all that sugar, and sugar infers with gluten formation as well. So, if you don't want a cookie to be too crumbly, you need to start by mixing water and flour together first, to form the gluten, before adding the sugar and fat."

Shirley Corriher began her unlikely journey into cooking as a lab chemist at Vanderbilt University Medical School.   She then started a boarding school with her former husband, and got her first taste of serious cooking when she prepared 3 meals a day for 140 ravenous boys.  Finding herself broke after a divorce, with 3 children to raise, she found a minimum wage job doing cleaning and set-up for a French cooking teacher.  Her chemist's application to cooking mysteries soon gained the attention of the teacher, and the rest as they say, is history.

The greatest chefs in the country are the first to turn to Shirley when stumped with a cooking dilemma, so there is certainly no reason for you not to do the same.  For instance, never cook green vegetables over 7 minutes in order to retain the color.  And, soak your fresh vegetables in cold water, pat dry, and then put in baggies to keep them crisper longer. 

Here are a few places to find tips from Shirley:

http://splendidtable.publicradio.org/souptonuts/science.html
http://www.chemheritage.org/women_chemistry/food/corriher.html
http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=92421142
http://www.chefsline.com/blog/podcasts/kitchen-secrets-revealed-with-shirley-o-corriher/print/